on the transformation of long gravity waves on a sloping beach:
Clicks: 117
ID: 211616
2010
Article Quality & Performance Metrics
Overall Quality
Not rated
Combines reader engagement with the AI quality analysis. This
article has not been analysed, so there is no overall score —
reader engagement is measured and shown alongside.
Reader Engagement
Steady Performance
30.0
/100
117 views
11 readers
AI Quality Assessment
Not analyzed
Readership in this journal
SteadyRanked #71 of 75 articles by views in analytical biochemistry
Most read
Least read
Bar heights use a square-root scale.
Mint this article as an NFT
Not yet mintedCreate a permanent, verifiable on-chain record of this article on the Scimatic Network. The NFT is held in your Journament account, and you can withdraw it to your own wallet at any time.
5
SUSD
one-off · no wallet required
Abstract
The transformation of long water waves arriving at a sloping beach is investigated. An approximate theory is presented for plane periodic waves propagating in water of non-uniform depth. The theoretical description of the phenomenon, based on certain kinematic assumptions, is formulated in the material variables, and the solution is constructed by applying the Hamilton variational principle. In order to assess the accuracy of the formulation and to learn more about long wave transformation, experimental measurements were carried out in a laboratory flume. In the experiments, a water wave, generated by a piston-type wave maker placed at one end of the flume, propagated towards a rigid inclined ramp installed at the other end of the flume. The wave transformation along the direction of its propagation was recorded by a set of wave gauges installed along the flume. The wave run-up on the sloping beach was measured with a special conductivity gauge placed alongside the ramp. Comparison of the theoretical results with experimental data indicates that the proposed theoretical formulation provides a good description of the main features of wave transformation behaviour over a sloping beach, except in the vicinity of the shore point, where some discrepancies occur.
| Reference Key |
hedzielski2010oceanologiaon
Use this key to autocite in the manuscript while using
SciMatic Manuscript Manager or Thesis Manager
|
|---|---|
| Authors | ;Benedykt Hedzielski;Jan Kazimierz Szmidt |
| Journal | analytical biochemistry |
| Year | 2010 |
| DOI |
DOI not found
|
| URL | |
| Keywords | Keywords not found |
Citations
No citations found. To add a citation, contact the admin at info@scimatic.org
Comments
No comments yet. Be the first to comment on this article.