On the Separation Period Discriminating Gravity and Infragravity Waves off Gyeongpo Beach, Korea

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ID: 117685
2020
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Abstract
Although there have been a number of studies investigating fundamental characteristics of infragravity waves in coastal zones, a proper method of deciding period ranges that are associated with gravity or infragravity waves remains uncertain. In this study, we proposed an empirical method of separating spectral energies of gravity and infragravity waves by analyzing the wave observation data acquired off Gyeongpo beach on the Korean east coast. The fundamental principle of the suggested method is to represent the separation period discriminating gravity and infragravity waves as a function of the significant wave period, rather than a fixed value that was conventionally applied in previous studies. As a consequence of using the new method, the relationships between heights and periods of gravity and infragravity waves were more clearly identified.
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Authors Jung-Eun Oh;Weon-Mu Jeong;Yeon S. Chang;Sang-Ho Oh;Oh, Jung-Eun;Jeong, Weon-Mu;Chang, Yeon S.;Oh, Sang-Ho;
Journal journal of marine science and engineering
Year 2020
DOI
10.3390/jmse8030167
URL
https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/8/3/167
Keywords
infragravity waves gravity waves separation period wave spectrum gyeongpo beach

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