Nearshore Waves and Littoral Drift Along a Micro-Tidal Wave-Dominated Coast Having Comparable Wind-Sea and Swell Energy

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2020
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Abstract
The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider buoy-measured data at 15 m water depth is utilized as the input wave parameters along with the reanalysis model data, and the numerical wave model Delft-3D is used for estimating the nearshore wave parameters. The relative contribution of wind-seas and swells on LST rates are specifically examined. The clear prevalence of west-southwest waves implies the prevalence of south to north longshore sediment transport with net transport varying from 0.19–0.37 × 105 m3/yr. LST is strongly dependent on the breaker angle and a small change in the wave direction substantially alters the LST, and hence reanalysis/model data with coarse resolutions produce large errors (~38%) in the LST estimate. The annual gross LST rate based on integral wave parameters is only 58% considering the wind-seas and swells separately, since the wind-sea energy is comparable to swell energy, and the direction of these two systems differs significantly.
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Authors Jesbin George;V. Sanil Kumar;R. Gowthaman;Jai Singh;George, Jesbin;Kumar, V. Sanil;Gowthaman, R.;Singh, Jai;
Journal journal of marine science and engineering
Year 2020
DOI
10.3390/jmse8010055
URL
https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/8/1/55/htm##B12-jmse-08-00055
Keywords
coastal processes longshore sediment transport nearshore modelling swells wave characteristics wind-seas

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